DruckWege Resin Type D Transparent / Blue / White – A comparison.

Safety: Type D resins do not contain any volatile organic components (VOC) Safety Datasheet https://www.druckwege.com/app/download/14373847724/1310_GB-en.pdf?t=1496675081

Initially ive been underwhelmed by DWs mainly epoxy based resin, right of the printer it could match FTDs resin in nearly every aspect but there didnt seem a lot more to it so the question i asked myself was what would make me choose it over a different fast curing acrylic resin, what would even justify a higher price ( which only applies to colored versions, clear is just the same price as FTD ind. ) than a classical well dialed in acrylic resin like FTD ind. ?

Im gonna answer that most definitely.

Smell: Muted, like the last batches of FTD ind. i got. When heated theres a discernible epoxy smell to it and something else which i couldnt pinpoint, pe maybe. Certainly mute enough to use in an apartement, given the usual precautions of ventilating the room well. Im a bit biased there though because i like epoxys smell 😉

Curing times: especially for the lower powered uv printer crowd the most important factor, with my 60w UV 8.9inch printer:

– FTD ind unpigmented: 2,8s

– DW Typ D Unpigmented: 3,5s

– DW Typ D Blue ~RAL 5012 Light blue: 3,5s

Another point worth mentioning is base Layers need a fair bit more cure time to stick properly, i could get FTD clr to stick @ 15s ( when it started sticking further base layer curing just increased time, not adhesion ) DW needs atleast 30s, after that it sticks very well ( as described below )

Shrinkage: Again similar to FTD but it seems to highly depend on the models geometry aswell, its certainly is one of the resins which dont shrink much.

Print Bed adhesion: DW sticks well to a roughly sanded aluminium plate ( 40 grit manual as the last step ) in fact it sticks a lot better than FTD (which itself already sticks well especially on aluminium ), this allowed me to raise lift speeds up to ~F175 ( retract F700 ) a speed where i had many failures with FTD before, the parts just wiggled loose until they completely dropped from the build plate.

Since then i backed of lifting speeds a fair bit ( F145 now max ) but in turn could hugely reduce lift heights ( 1mm lowest / 2mm heighest / 2,5mm for burn in / small parts ) as DW doesnt seem to stick much to the fep at all.

Again a discernible difference but nothing major either, certainly not enough to sway me one way or another, especially as i can drive FTD ind clr down to 4.9s cycle times @ 0.05 which is imo insanely fast for a uv / lcd printer.

Light bleed Again comparable but in certain situations DW fared better, ive never had big problems with FTD but vertically aligned channels just come out a bit better with DW, the base layers dont grow as much either.

Details: I didnt look much at the details the prints gave me as my main goal was to evaluate the brittleness, seemed comparable / slightly better than FTD though, when i have pigmented DW ill look more closely at it.

Heat sensitivity: DW is more sensitive to heating resin, first few layers had definitively less fep adhesion than later ones, together with good print bed adhesion this didnt mean much, in the future i hope that we can use it to reduce cure times.

Onto the reasons why you will never buy another all purpose resin again

Some generic blabla here: Brittleness of acrylic resins is really high, some go up to a surface hardness in the regions of shoreD 90 which is really hard but worth absolutely nothing in any real world application because they remain brittle, ive only ever used a single FTD part in my quadcopter which exploded on the first light crash.

Now this only applies to FULLY CURED PARTS, dont make the mistake i did and compare DW right of the build plate with anything else, the changes taking place while fully curing are huge, certainly a lot more important than with other solely / mainly acrylic based resins.

DW is strong. I dont mean “yeah a bit stronger but i can get FTD f.e. from my local dealer why should i care” strong. I mean seriously strong, so strong in fact that i cant physically break the part from the picture.

Im a strong guy, i do physical labor every day ( Not true sometimes i take days of and pretend to be god almighty on internet forums 😉 )

I just cant break the two bigger posts. I can grab them perfectly, i can wedge my fingers in between to load them even higher than i could pull with my arms but they wont break, i stopped trying after a while because i got scared im gonna severely cut my fingers if i finally succeeded.

But wait, theres more…

Aftercuring / Cleaning: Mentioned before, to reach its full potential DW needs to fully cure ( Typical UV Nail station 2+ Hrs for tiny parts )

When cleaning another property of DW becomes apparent, FTD ind parts never fully cure on the outside as oxygen creates an inhibition layer which cant cure, we can counteract that by washing them very thoroughly with IPA which isnt perfect either as that might damage the surface to a certain extend, DW just fully cures and thats it, no more messy parts even though they sat for hours under uv cure.
As of now ive tested this multiple times, DW fully cures exposed to air, ftd and most other resins always stay sticky, so underwater curing becomes a thing of the past with DW.

( Which in turn makes me doubt that continous printing is going anywhere because most of these systems would be restricted to purely acrylic resins due to the way they use oxygen as an curing inhibitor )

Second part of this comparison:

DruckWege Resin Type D pigmented – A comparison.

Now that ive established the basics and changed everything a bit around to reflect more precisely on my findings im having a closer look at the pigmented version of the resin:

Blue ~RAL 5012 Light blue

Pigment saturation: Very low, parts come out translucent / blueish, dont expect results like FTD regular snow white or Photocentric3d Hard Grey which both contain a lot more pigments for the same volume. This has obviously some drawbacks, but in turn some benefits as well.

DW RAL 5012 Light blue strongly reminds me of translucent filament prints in its appearance.

Pigment retention: I couldnt make out any settled pigments after two full days in the vat, so i guess this wont be a problem even for the longest of prints, will add more info once it sat for longer in the Vat.

Pigmentation effect on cure times: none. ( The fastest pigmented resin i tried to date )

Pigmentation effect on post cure handling: it certainly extends the post curing time but due to its low pigment saturation i guess classical uv curing is still possible ( UV light can still penetrate the parts so they can still be post cured throughout )

Pigmentation effect on part strength: None.

Details: Again its hard for me to tell because i have a low resolution printer ( 75my pixel pitch ) without AA the parts look pixel perfect to me but maybe someone with a 5,5′ 2k screen can chime in and offer his thoughts on it.

Color post cure: Same yellowing like the unpigmented version, turns greenish after a 20min / 20min cure on a UV Nail curing station

All in all nothing really spectacular came to light while testing the light blue resin, it just keeps all the great properties of DW unpigmented and adds a blue tint to them.

I think the focus when developing this resin was to keep the curing / part handling similar to unpigmented and in that regard DW clearly succeded.

The amount of pigment is enough to mask the yellowish appearance of unpigmented fully cured resins, so especially functional parts dont look like your granny printed them in her early days.

Pictures of parts / raw resin in the comments.

White ~RAL 1015 Light ivory

Pigment saturation: Medium, parts come out almost fully opaque, this in turn makes working with the resin more difficult opposed to Unpigmented / Blue, expect this resin to only stick properly to a perfectly dialed in printbed, it takes no hostages on the slightest of discrepancies.

Pigment retention: I couldnt make out any settled pigments after a full day in the vat and by now ive pretty much run out of white while testing.

Pigmentation effect on cure times: Fair – i had to raise my base layers to 45s and the normal layers to 6+ seconds ( I couldnt finalize testing as ive ran out of white, i guess finally i would have arrived in the 7,5s range )

Pigmentation effect on post cure handling: Doesnt seem to cure fully throughout, ill report back once i got a part under UV cure for longer.

Pigmentation effect on part strength: Still strong, a bit less than unpigmented / Blue

Details: Again its hard for me to tell because i have a low resolution printer ( 75my pixel pitch ) without AA the parts look pixel perfect to me but maybe someone with a 5,5′ 2k screen can chime in and offer his thoughts on it.

Color post cure: Same yellowing like the unpigmented version, turns yellowish after a 20min / 20min cure on a UV Nail curing station

White seems to go the mid way between typical low pigment saturated resins and highly saturated ones, if thats a reasonble way of doing it stands to question, i would rather either have a low pigment amount to just tint the resin a bit for contrast when painting without affecting curing time to much or an all out saturated resin for final parts of the plate.

Summary

For now i can just recommend to everyone whos looking for more durable parts to order atleast a test bottle of DW unpigmented even if it doesnt meet your specific expectations you will certainly get usable parts of it.

I will constantly update this OP if anything worth mention turns up but for now im just happy / exited that i can finally start designing functional parts again just as i did with my fdm printer.

http://www.druckwege.de

Anton asked me for feedback on how to possibly change the resin: You well exceeded my expectations for a mainly epoxy based resin, leave it as it is, its great !

And just to be clear because this might read as an all out advertisement for DW im in no way affiliated to them, i talked to +Anton G. twice on the phone and he seemed to be a really nice guy but i wouldnt give a flying fuck if his product was bad or just meh and this comparison would have a completely different tone to it.

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