In depth summary and Powermod for the KLD-2150 K1

– Out of the box the cover was cracked ( to be expected the way its packaged )

– Spindle / stepper connector misaligned and not secured

– Power button loose

– Backside PSU connector cold solder spot came of after repeatedly disassembling the printer

Problems with the working unit:

– Raspberry PI3 oiverheating, needs an additional fan so it doesn’t go into thermal protection and downclocks.

– Powder coated build surface: while being able to directly print to it and having sufficient adhesion, sometimes big parts curled up Fix sanded the plate first with 80 grit on an orbital sander to get the powder coat of and afterwards 40 grit manually to get really deep scratches in it and now everything sticks perfectly.

– Distance between Led / cooling array and metal light guide to high leaking a lot of uv – Fix and Part for fix in the comments.

– Rotational sway between mounting block and build plate, check comments for a Fix

– 12v 6v Buck converter only 32W same as in its smaller brothers YHD-101 / KLD 2150, despite 6x 10W LEDs build in.

– Thermal grease for UV LEDs badly aplied

Wiring them in series has the added benefit of no brightness deviation which is a problem with parallel wired LEDs.

– Aluminium posts connecting top and bottom plate misaligned.

– Cover not really fitting the unit ( not enough height to allow Zs full range etc )

– Psu only rated at 12v 5a barely enough with a proper buck converter Fix bought a generic 10a 12v unit to replace it

– The protective film wasnt removed from the lcd and the flap to remove it hidden under the black tape. Fix I removed the black tape completely and changed it to a much thinner electrical insulation tape as the thick black one gave me huge problems aligning the build plate first.

– The right calibrating space between display and build plate is three layers of standard office printing paper, it needs to get stuck ever so slightly on all 4 corners of the display ( Check one after another )

– Metal light funnel distorted, Fix unscrew from below and align properly.

All in all no deal breakers, generally the unit has been built way better than expected:

– Proper z linear rail

– Ballnut screw with flexible connector to the stepper, loose and fixed bearings.

– Solid ! all aluminium build ( results in a really heavy and stable machine )

Display Specs:

192mm ( 2560px / 75my / 338,6^ ppi / 13,3^ ppcm ) x 112mm ( 1600px / 75my / 338,6^ ppi / 13,3^ ppcm )

Onto the software:

Photonic3D on a octopi distro ( no remote access as far as i can tell beside photonic ) / MOYIU “My Power XYZ” with Sprinter preinstalled and working ( as in able to talk to the machine 😉 )

Display properly set in the settings.txt file, working at full resolution right out of the box.

To get Photonic in a usable state the following changes had to be done:

;** Header **

G21 ;Set units to be mm
G91 ;Relative Positioning
G28 ; Home Printer
M17 ;Enable motors
;<Delay> 3000

;** Lift Sequence **

G1 Z${ZLiftDist} F25
G1 Z${(-ZLiftDist+LayerThickness)} F170.0

And nothing in the shutter section.

Later down this comment train a lot more sophisticated settings for photonic are available.

Heres a link to a pi image which should work straight out of the box and employs tweaked dynamic Lift cycles.


Latest Version 1556 ( 03.07.2017 ) in a complete package including +Bud Hammerton s latest firmware for the ramps board and a quick readme / install instruction.

Updated Base Resin profile:

NanoDLP wont work without a flashed ramps, so dont try to laze out of it.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *